THE DIARY 16: The Heart of Luxury
A few days ago, Gucci released the first of a 35-video series created to celebrate the 10-year anniversary of its Chime Campaign for gender equality. Their efforts are laudable. Founded by actor Salma Hayek-Pinault and pop superstar Beyoncé Knowles, the campaign has raised over $21 million and impacted, according to the brand numbers, the lives of 635,000 women worldwide through near 500 projects. In the video, near a dozen celebrities, artists, activists and personalities “chime” for change, applaud the achievements of the last decade and remind us that the work is far from done. “Is scary how the world is for females,” says Julia Roberts in the first few seconds of the video, directed by Oscar winner filmmaker Sharmeen Obaid Chinoy. We are told that there’s progress to be made in the most basic areas: health, education, employment…”We can’t give up in fighting for what’s right, fighting for justice,”explains singer John legend.
Of course, Gucci is not alone in this socially conscious marketing environment. There’s a long list of luxury brands embarked in the most admirable crusades: Tiffany helps to save landscapes and seascapes through its Tiffany.Co Foundation. Since 2000, the Foundation has awarded over USD $100 million in grants to nonprofit organizations working around the world and uses only diamonds obtained via “responsible mining.” Rolex supports young entrepreneurs looking for positive cultural or environmental change through its “Rolex Awards Enterprise,”that has awarded 156 grants since its inception in 1976. Stella McCartney is a leader in sustainable and animal cruelty-free fashion; Cartier only works with “ethical gold,”recycling almost 90 percent of its gold production; Tommy Hilfiger, Prada, Dior, Estee Lauder, Chanel…all of them are involved in campaigns that promote social justice, equality or some sort of impact and change. And though it would be hard not to love their efforts, they sometimes face scrutiny, suspicion and even distrust. Among the many illnesses of the modern world, economic inequality is one of the most severe, and the word “luxury” is not the first one to pop up in one’s mind when taking about justice or social change. Fashion, after all, is a business- a trillion plus a year business. Bernard Arnault, the powerful CEO of the LVMH group, the largest luxury conglomerate in the world, recently surpassed Elon Musk as the richest man on the planet with a fortune, according to Forbes, of $219 billion. In recent protests in Paris against changes in the French pension system, demonstrators singled out the headquarters of LVMH in the Champs Elysees as ground zero for showing their discontent. For them, few things call for “Eat the Rich” with the power a $6,000 Louis Vuitton Petit Maille bag.
Among the many illnesses of the modern world, economic inequality is one of the most severe, and the word “luxury” is not the first one to pop up in one’s mind when talking about justice or social change.
I have worked for fashion and lifestyle magazines for over 3 decades and I am well aware of the tensions, sometimes even contradictions, of peddling luxury and, at the same time, promoting social impact. On occasion feels opportunistic, true. But in my experience, most of the times there’s a real concern for the causes and, more importantly, the results are tangible and meaningful.
The Gucci video comes out in a moment of important transition for the Italian label. After seven years as creative director, Alessandro Michele left his position late last year leaving behind stellar sales and a remarkable style legacy for the brand. He is being replaced by Sabato de Sarno, who will show his first Gucci collection in September, one of the most anticipated shows of next season. The celebration of a decade of the Chime Campaign coincides with this pivotal moment, when Gucci needs to shine a light on its long-term commitment to playing a role in meaningful social change.
Beyond marketing or commercial considerations, the socially-conscious campaigns of luxury brands are serving a purpose and are making a difference – a big difference, in many cases. And that is great news.